Guided Descent of Fitzimmons N. Face 20th Anniversary

Yes it was twenty years ago that the late Trevor Peterson and Eric Pehota skied the North Face Of Mt. Fitzimmons. And a couple days later Jia Condon and I did the second descent following the first descent of Mt Iago North West Face.
For Years the N Face of Fitzimmons has been on Jason Lee’s hit list. Two previous attempts preceded our attempt on Feb 2. We stayed in the Himmelsbach hut at Russet lake with a couple of ‘boarders from Quebec. When we asked them what they were up to they replied that they had “taken a look at N Face Fitz” and were slightly overwhelmed by it and decided to take a look at a line on Fissile instead. They mentioned that they could see tracks on Iago but none on Fitzimmons. That obviously excited us an extra amount of determination to see the face. Before dawn on Feb 2 we skinned up away from the hut with a few clouds about and temperatures at -3c. The clouds grew grey and ominous as we approached the Overlord bypass. In and out of cloud we traversed around Overlord and Benviolo. We bootpacked up the south coulior of Fitzimmons and made the notch at 10:45. Total white out and strong southerly winds had us hunkered down on the high N Face waiting for a clearing….
Around 11:30 the clouds parted, the light became clear and we could easily navigate the downward traverse to the top of the face proper. John Baldwin calls it “380m of 45-50deg”. Pretty intimidating, but after our last outing on the Central Coulior of Joffre it looked really manageable.

Joffre Central Couloir

Just over a week after the super fun descent of Twin One Couloir Jason was up north for another day on the steeps. The stability was still good and over the last week we had 1 – 2 cm per day. Just perfect I thought for an attempt on the Joffre Central Couloir. After a predawn start from Mount Currie we set up the Duffy for the Cerise Creek trailhead. As forecast the sky remained mostly cloudy for the day which is what I was hoping for. As the temperature was warm we needed the cloud cover to keep the looming cornices and mushrooms strong and cool.

The couloir was very firm in the center and it was a good idea to have the crampons for the entire climb. The descent was very tricky at the top due to the the concave shape of the upper couloir.  After the exposed rock in the upper section the snow became better for the rest of the descent (well except for the center runnel)

Skinning up the Joffre glacier morraine.
rich climbing just above the chimney
beautiful granite of the couloir
jay at the changeover
jay slipping down through the crux section near the top
getting wider and the snow betterits still pretty steep!
crazy rock of the central pillar
yup just more of the same